Vol. XVII · Deck 7 · The Deck Catalog

Middle East.

Lebanese, Persian, Turkish, Israeli/Palestinian, Egyptian, North African. Mezze, bread, spice trade roots, Ottolenghi's global reach.


Earliest bread evidenceShubayqa, ~14,400 BCE
Yotam OttolenghiOperations since 2002
Pages30
Lede02

OpeningWhat we mean by Middle Eastern cuisine.

Middle Eastern cuisine is a constellation of regional traditions sharing common roots in the eastern Mediterranean and Levantine spice-and-bread tradition. Lebanese, Persian, Turkish, Palestinian, Egyptian, and North African cuisines have historical interconnections without being identical.

Common features: long-fermented breads (pita, lavash, manakish), the mezze tradition, lamb and chicken as primary meats, vegetables in central roles, spice mixtures (za'atar, ras el hanout, baharat), olive oil dominance, fresh herbs, citrus, dates, pomegranate, tahini.

This deck covers the major regional traditions, the historical-trade roots, the contemporary scene (Ottolenghi's globalisation, the Turkish kebab diaspora), and how to cook in this tradition at home.

Vol. XVII— ii —
Roots03

Chapter IThe fertile crescent.

["Wheat, barley, lentil, chickpea, fava bean, sesame, olive — most of the Middle Eastern pantry has 8,000+ year roots in the Fertile Crescent. The cuisine is the world's oldest continuously documented.", 'Bread is the foundational technology. Charred dough fragments from Shubayqa, Jordan (~14,400 BCE) predate agriculture itself. The flatbread tradition (pita, lavash, taboon, baladi) has been continuous since.']

ME Cuisine— i —
Lebanese04

Chapter IIThe mezze tradition.

['Lebanese cuisine is mezze-centered. Hummus, baba ghanoush, tabbouleh, fattoush, kibbeh, falafel, foul medames, labneh, makdous (oil-cured stuffed eggplant) — multiple small dishes shared across the table.', 'Lebanese cuisine has been particularly diasporic. The Syrian-Lebanese diaspora across the Americas (Brazilian Mexican Lebanese in particular) has established the cuisine globally.']

ME Cuisine— ii —
Mezze
The mezze tradition — many small dishes shared simultaneously rather than a hierarchy of courses. The eating ritual is fundamentally communal.
Persian05

Chapter IIIThe slow elegance.

['Persian (Iranian) cuisine is among the most refined regional traditions in the world. Long-cooked stews (khoreshts) of meat, vegetables, herbs, and dried fruits served over basmati rice with crisp tahdig (the rice crust).', 'Major dishes: ghormeh sabzi (herb stew), fesenjan (pomegranate-walnut chicken or duck), zereshk polo (barberry rice), ash reshteh (noodle-bean soup), kuku sabzi (herb frittata). The tahdig technique alone is a major culinary achievement.']

ME Cuisine— iii —
Turkish06

Chapter IVEmpire to street food.

['Turkish cuisine reflects the Ottoman imperial reach. The palace tradition (the Topkapı kitchens fed thousands daily, with dedicated specialists for soup, pilaf, kebab, dessert).', 'The street food: döner kebab (modern in current form, German-Turkish standardisation 1972 onward), simit, börek, lahmacun, manti, kofte. Mezze: meze is the Turkish form of mezze with shared roots.']

ME Cuisine— iv —
Palestinian/Israeli07

Chapter VContested cuisine.

["The cuisine of historic Palestine — musakhan (sumac-spiced chicken on flatbread), maqluba (upside-down rice with vegetables and meat), ka'ak Al Quds (Jerusalem sesame bread), ful — has been variously claimed and contested.", 'Israeli cuisine, as developed in the 20th century, draws heavily on Palestinian, Yemenite Jewish, Mizrahi, and European Jewish traditions. The political question of authorship and recognition is real and ongoing.']

ME Cuisine— v —
Egyptian08

Chapter VIBread and beans.

["Egyptian cuisine: ful medames (slow-cooked fava beans, breakfast staple), koshary (rice-pasta-lentil-tomato sauce, the great vegetarian dish), molokhia (jute-leaf soup), ta'meya (Egyptian falafel made from fava beans not chickpeas).", 'Cairo is the largest city in the Arabic-speaking world and one of the great street-food cities. The koshary stand is to Cairo what the noodle stand is to Saigon.']

ME Cuisine— vi —
Iraqi09

Chapter VIIMesopotamia.

['Iraqi cuisine: masgouf (barbecued Tigris carp, the national dish), tepsi baytinijan (eggplant-meat casserole), kubba (stuffed bulgur balls in many varieties), dolma, biryani (the Iraqi version, distinct from Indian).', 'The pre-2003 Iraqi food tradition has been disrupted by decades of war. Diaspora communities (Detroit, Stockholm, London) have preserved and transmitted the cuisine.']

ME Cuisine— vii —
Saudi/Gulf10

Chapter VIIIThe Gulf cuisines.

['Gulf Arabic cuisine: kabsa (spiced rice with meat, the Saudi national dish), majboos (Bahraini variant), maqlooba (shared with the Levant), harees (slow-cooked wheat-and-meat porridge), luqaimat (sweet dumplings).', 'The Bedouin tradition — minimal-equipment, fire-pit cooking, dates and camel milk — underlies much Gulf cuisine. Modern Gulf cooking is increasingly globalised but the home-cooking tradition remains conservative.']

ME Cuisine— viii —
North African11

Chapter IXThe Maghreb.

['Moroccan, Algerian, Tunisian, Libyan cuisines share couscous (the steamed semolina), tagines (clay-pot slow-cooked stews), harissa (chili paste), preserved lemons, olives.', 'Major Moroccan dishes: pastilla (sweet-savoury pigeon pie), bisteeya, tagine of lamb-and-prunes, mechoui. Tunisian: brik (deep-fried egg-stuffed pastry), tunisian harissa. The French colonial period left lasting influence on professional kitchens.']

ME Cuisine— ix —
Spices12

Chapter XThe pantry.

["The spice trade is foundational. Sumac, za'atar (the herb mixture or the wild thyme variety), Aleppo pepper, baharat, ras el hanout (Moroccan, often 20+ ingredients), Lebanese seven-spice.", 'Saffron (Persian, the most expensive spice), cardamom, cinnamon, cumin, coriander, turmeric, allspice, dried lime (loomi), dried rose petals, sumac. The pantry is large but the preferred combinations are regional.']

ME Cuisine— x —
Olive oil13

Chapter XIThe fat.

['Olive oil is the dominant cooking fat. Lebanese (typically a fruity green Picholine-style), Palestinian (Nabulsi and Galilean, often peppery), Tunisian (Chetoui-Chemlali), Greek, Italian — each region has distinctive characters.', "Most Middle Eastern cuisine uses olive oil at room temperature for finishing rather than at high heat for cooking. The Mediterranean diet's much-discussed health benefits are substantially the olive-oil benefits."]

ME Cuisine— xi —
Bread14

Chapter XIIThe center of the table.

["Pita (the puffed pocket flatbread, baked at very high heat). Lavash (Armenian/Persian thin sheets, large enough to wrap food). Taboon (the clay oven and the bread baked in it). Manakish (Lebanese flatbread topped with za'atar or cheese).", 'Bread is typically the eating utensil. Stews are scooped, hummus is dipped, kabob is wrapped. The cuisine assumes warm, fresh bread at every meal.']

ME Cuisine— xii —
Tagine
The tagine — both the conical clay cooking vessel and the slow-cooked stew it produces. Among the most-recognised cooking technologies of the Maghreb.
Mezze15

Chapter XIIIThe shared table.

['Mezze (Arabic) / meze (Turkish/Greek) / mazze (Persian) — small dishes served simultaneously, accompanied by bread and often arak or raki (the anise spirit).', 'The mezze meal is structurally social — many small things to share rather than a hierarchy of courses. The hospitality tradition (offering more than guests can eat is a virtue) is deeply embedded.']

ME Cuisine— xiii —
Yogurt and labneh16

Chapter XIVThe dairy tradition.

['Yogurt is foundational. Labneh (strained yogurt cheese) appears across the cuisine. Ayran/laban (yogurt drink, salted) is widespread.', 'The Mongol-era spread of fermented dairy from Central Asia interacted with existing Mediterranean dairy traditions. Modern Greek yogurt (the strained style commercialised in the 21st century) is essentially labneh under a different name.']

ME Cuisine— xiv —
Sweets17

Chapter XVThe dessert tradition.

['Baklava (the layered filo-and-nut pastry, contested origin between Greek, Turkish, Armenian, Persian, Arab traditions). Kunafa (Palestinian, cheese-and-syrup-soaked semolina threads). Maamoul (date-stuffed cookies). Halva (sesame paste sweetmeat).', 'The shared dessert tradition is sugar-syrup-and-pastry-and-nut. Strong Turkish coffee or Arabic cardamom coffee accompanies.']

ME Cuisine— xv —
Coffee18

Chapter XVIThe other ritual.

['Turkish coffee — finely ground, simmered in a cezve, served unfiltered. Arabic coffee (gahwa) — lighter roast, often with cardamom, served small. Yemeni coffee — light roast, served with ginger.', 'Coffee culture is central. The traditional Turkish coffee preparation has been UNESCO-recognised. Modern third-wave coffee (specialty cafes in Beirut, Tehran, Istanbul, Tel Aviv) coexists with traditional preparation.']

ME Cuisine— xvi —
Ottolenghi19

Chapter XVIIThe popularizer.

['Yotam Ottolenghi (Israeli, London-based, with Sami Tamimi) and his cookbooks (Ottolenghi, Plenty, Jerusalem) have brought eastern Mediterranean cuisine to enormous global audiences since 2008.', "The 'Ottolenghi style' — vegetable-forward, herb-laden, spice-cabinet-deep, photographically beautiful — has been imitated worldwide. The political question of his Israeli identity in the context of disputed Palestinian cuisine is regularly raised."]

ME Cuisine— xvii —
Hummus20

Chapter XVIIIThe contested dish.

['Hummus (chickpeas, tahini, lemon, garlic, olive oil) is among the most-disputed foods on Earth. Lebanese, Palestinian, Israeli, Syrian, Turkish, Greek, Cypriot claims to invention all exist.', 'The historical record gives chickpea-based dishes a long history in the eastern Mediterranean. The specific modern hummus — with tahini — is probably medieval or older, with documentation in 13th-century Egyptian cookbooks.']

ME Cuisine— xviii —
Yotam Ottolenghi
Yotam Ottolenghi — popularised eastern Mediterranean cuisine globally. Operations since 2002, books since 2008. The 'Ottolenghi effect' has reshaped contemporary home cooking in Anglophone markets.
Diaspora21

Chapter XIXWhere the cuisines went.

['Lebanese diaspora: Brazil (4M+), Mexico, Argentina, US, France, West Africa, Australia. Mexican-Lebanese fusion (taquerias built on shawarma method). Brazilian Lebanese (esfiha as a national snack).', "Turkish diaspora: Germany (3M+), Netherlands, France, UK, US. Döner kebab as one of Germany's most-consumed foods. Iranian diaspora: US (especially LA, 'Tehrangeles'), UK, France."]

ME Cuisine— xix —
Restaurants22

Chapter XXThe contemporary scene.

["Major restaurants: Zahav (Philadelphia, Michael Solomonov), Rüya (Dubai/London), Anan (Cairo), Em Sherif (Beirut), Saramanchak (Istanbul). Ottolenghi's NOPI (London). Eyal Shani's restaurants (Miznon, North Abraxas).", "The 2010s and 2020s have seen Middle Eastern cuisine move firmly into the global fine-dining conversation. Several Michelin-starred restaurants and significant World's 50 Best showings."]

ME Cuisine— xx —
Politics23

Chapter XXICuisine and conflict.

['Food has been a battleground in the Israeli-Palestinian conflict, the Lebanese civil war legacy, the Syrian war diaspora, and broader Middle Eastern politics. Origin claims are politically loaded.', 'Reza Mohammadi, Joudie Kalla, Reem Kassis, Sami Tamimi, and other writers have engaged the politics of cuisine directly. The work of Palestinian food writers in particular has gained substantial international recognition since 2015.']

ME Cuisine— xxi —
Home cooking24

Chapter XXIIWhere to start.

['For novices: hummus (from canned chickpeas, the easy version), tabbouleh, fattoush, shakshuka, ful medames. These four dishes give a working introduction.', 'For more ambitious: chicken shawarma (sheet-pan adaptation), maqluba, kafta, baba ghanoush from charred eggplant, fesenjan. The Ottolenghi books are accessible starting points.']

ME Cuisine— xxii —
Reading list25

Chapter XXIIITwenty-five works.

ME Cuisine— xxiii —
Watch & Read26

Chapter XXIVWatch & read.

↑ Middle Eastern cuisine — mezze and home cooking

More on YouTube

Watch · Hummus and the Lebanese-Palestinian-Israeli debate
Watch · Persian rice and tahdig technique

ME Cuisine— xxiv —
How to start27

Chapter XXVIf you want to learn it.

For beginners. Start with Roden's A Book of Middle Eastern Food (1968) for the historical sweep, then Ottolenghi's Jerusalem for the practical entry. Reem Kassis's The Palestinian Table for a Palestinian perspective. Najmieh Batmanglij for Persian cuisine specifically.

For pantry. Stock: za'atar blend, sumac, Aleppo pepper, ras el hanout, tahini (a good one — Soom or Al Wadi), good olive oil, dried chickpeas (or canned), bulgur, semolina, dates, pomegranate molasses, rose water, orange-flower water. The investment is ~$50-100 and unlocks many dishes.

For visiting. Beirut's restaurant scene (Em Sherif, Tawlet, Souk el Tayeb), Istanbul (Çiya, Hala Manti, the Asitane Ottoman-revival), Tel Aviv (Manta Ray, Shaffa, Eyal Shani), Cairo (Abou Tarek for koshary, Felfela), Tehran (when accessible). The cuisine varies dramatically across cities.

For cooking class. The Sur la Table chains, ICE NYC, and most major culinary schools offer Middle Eastern courses. The Ottolenghi book recipes are well-tested and forgiving for home cooks.

ME Cuisine— xxv —
Argument28

Chapter XXVIWhy it matters.

Among the world's deepest culinary traditions. The Fertile Crescent gave humanity bread and many of its staple grains. The eastern Mediterranean continues to produce some of the most-flavorful, vegetable-rich, deeply-historical cuisine on Earth.

The cuisine has gone global. Hummus is now a supermarket staple in most Western countries. Shawarma stands exist on every continent. Ottolenghi's cookbooks have sold millions. The cultural prestige is high.

Politics and food are entangled. Origin claims (hummus, falafel, baklava, pita) carry weight. Palestinian cookbook authors have argued — increasingly successfully — for explicit Palestinian recognition in cuisine that has often been labeled 'Middle Eastern' or 'Mediterranean' in ways that erase specific origins.

ME Cuisine— xxvi —
Where it goes29

Chapter XXVIIThe next decade.

Continued globalisation. Middle Eastern cuisine remains in expansion phase in Western markets. The 2020s have seen substantial growth.

The political conversation. Origin debates and recognition politics will continue. Palestinian cookbook authors and Levantine food writers have permanently shifted the discourse.

Restaurant innovation. Beirut, Tel Aviv, Istanbul, and Dubai are producing world-class restaurants engaging with regional cuisine creatively. The next World's 50 Best generation will likely include several from the region.

The vegetable-forward shift. The cuisine's strong vegetable tradition aligns with broader 21st-century plant-forward eating. Many of the most-cited 'plant-based' restaurants of the 2020s draw heavily on Levantine technique.

ME Cuisine— xxvii —
Colophon30

The end of the deck.

Middle Eastern Cuisine — Volume XVII, Deck 7 of The Deck Catalog. Set in Cormorant Garamond italic. Sand-paper #f3eada with rust, jade, and saffron accents.

FINIS

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